Growing up in Hyderabad old city - Part 3

In part three am writing on the activities observed by me around 1980-81 at home and outside in my locality. Every morning my father would bring milk and the Hindu news paper. Milk was supplied in glass bottles. Bottles were replaced over time with plastic packets. I remember kannada magazine Prajamata. I guess it was weekly. Occasionally I would see Camels outside my school standing at the ground adjacent to library. Camels had big tin boxes with Lhasa Lamsa tea written in big letters. I guess the distributors employed Camels in those days.

Some distinct professionals that I cannot find in today were common in old city.  One is Lime mortar maker. Traditional method of bulls pulling at grinding roller in a circular path to grind lime, sand and water was in use in 1980s. The cement concrete mortar was used in any new buildings coming up. Last such lime mortar maker was in gowlipura. First right from masjid, this lane lead to manik prabhu temple. He had a bull to pull the circular grinder.

Second profession was an iron Smith located diagonally opposite to the library building at the corner of road leading to Gowlipura. He used to make iron hoves for horses, cows and bulls, make iron rim for the wooden wheels of the cart. Bullock carts were commonly used to carry grass from open fields in uppuguda. The tall grass was the food for cattle.

Third profession was white washers with long bamboo ticks. They would wait at the Shahalibanda cross roads in the mornings. Those who want to hire them would go negotiate cost to white wash homes. One such person was called every year before Diwali

In my home. My father would hire a pathan regularly. After many years I guess in 1990s my father pointed a single room house abandoned and said the pathan lived here. This is as we enter lane beside Library building to go towards Murad nagar and laldarwaza, one lane leads to Nagul chinta. Its not actually proper road, it’s a private property enclosed by walls. At the end of long open place an old building stands. Its extends up to the well behind it. The abandoned one room house was on the left as we entered open space. The pathan may have died or migrated. As I grew up the white washing of house before Diwali was distributed among Diwakar, me and father. We would paint the Doors, Windows, Wooden furniture ourselves.

I would see the Baul singer come by in the mornings. I could here from distance his voice and sound of Gubgubi or Gubguba. My mother would give some rice. The Baul singers dress resembled that of Swamy Vivekananda. Some times a different baul singer was seen playing an ektara.

 

Baul singer Puran Das, for illustration of Baul Singer. 

One more professional was the mobile barber. Barbers carrying a black leather bag were seen walking the streets. They may still be around. But I would see families getting hair cut from these barbers at home.

At home summer activity was a compulsive ritual to prepare mango Pickle. Father would buy dry mangos. On way from Charminar, after the Bharat petrol pump the street turned a market selling dry mangoes in summer. Market extended all the way to the end of Princess Esra Hospital compound. Each vendor had a dedicated person to chop the mangoes into pieces. I started going with my father around that time. My mother prepared the mix of oil, chilly powder, salt. The pickle was stored in ceramic Jars enough to last till next year. We had three big size jars and two small.

My mother would also prepare Sabudana Sandige (Sabudana papad) and Sun dried chilli known as balaka in kannada. My lunch box often contained curd rice and pickle. Those days the lunch box was a round steel. Sometimes it was a struggle to open the lid.

Growing up in Hyderabad old city - Part 2

Having lived near the School and Library building, seeing the students in uniform for a long time I was looking forward to going to school. My first day to School was exciting. I would be walking into the semi-circular building for the first time. The entrance was from a side door away from the main road. My mother came to drop me. My younger brother was in her arms, he was looking around curiously and jumping out of grasp to join other kids going up the stairs. A woman took my bag and led me to the first floor. It was a very long hall with benches arranged in rows. The class rooms were separated by curtains. Windows were too high for me to see outside. The Bell rang and all childing ran out of hall and went up to the roof. It was assembly time and morning prayer was held on the roof. I have never been to a high place. I liked the view of Sudha talkies. Recognized my house on left side. That was a vivid memory of my first day at school.

Interesting Video of Hyderabad in 1982 someone Posted on YouTube

 https://youtu.be/ensvWa-imGc

  

Dilip

Days passed, and I made friends. C Ramesh has been my friend and classmate since nursery. After third standard my parents shifted me to Raghavendra High School, Ramesh was again my Classmate there. He is the  longest known friend. He completed school with me in 1990. We were back benchers.  Reason being we were average students in studies and also among the taller boys. He is in touch event today in 2020. Some other names I recall are Narayana, Ramdev, Gopal, Anamika, Aarti, Pallavi and Pavani sisters were with me since Nursery in BGVS school. Narayana was sent to a boarding school, I think after 1^st standard. I met him only once after that. He lived in the lane beside Sudha Talkies that went to Bela Colony. Ramdev was a marwadi. His House was just about 100 meters form school towards Gowlipura. He used to play with me but did not go far from his house. Gopal was one friend who would roam around the lanes with me. Play in sand at construction site or go with me to other friends’ homes after school. He would come with me to grocery store when my mother sent to buy something. Gopal unfortunately discontinued school. I would meet him on outside sometimes. I met him last time around 1990-91 on Sudha talkies main road. He called out to me just to check if I still speak to him. Gopal did not tell me what he did for a living. Though I stayed in old city until 2002. I did not see him again after that.

Diwakar

Mr. Rangaiah family was another tenant at the house of Anant Chitgopkar. Rangaiah was an employee in District education Office. His wife was a teacher in Venkat Rao memorial school at Laldarwaza. Their first child Naveen was one year younger to me. That year Rangaiah’s second child was born. He was named Praveen. I was very excited to see the baby. One day Vasundhara, the younger daughter of house owner started a new practice. All the children would get the dinner plates full of food to the terrace. We ate dinner together and played until the parents took us back to bed.

Naveen & Dilip

In my home I was jealous of attention my Diwakar got. I did not like him playing with my toys. I would treat his toys as mine. My mother narrated how badly I disliked my brother. A few days after my mother came home with the baby from maternity hospital, I asked her to give back the baby to the Hospital. My elder brother Datta who was 19 years older to me had joined ONGC. He came back home on leave. He was a new person for Diwakar. Datta lifted Diwakar playfully. Diwakar cried out and escaped into kitchen. Diwakar stayed away from Datta for few days. That time we shifted our home to a house on street leading to Chandulal Bela. Opposite to Pathak building and the Girni (flour mill). Owner was an old widow by name Yenkamma. This was also a Wada with five tenants. One of the neighbors was Benglurkar family. Their son was in Indian Army. Their house had a nice Boat with many sails displayed in showcase. I used to watch it closely and wonder how it was made. Diwakar was also admitted in BGVS school. This year was event full. I saw another curfew. Schools were closed. My father reached home in the afternoon. His office staff included few muslims. They informed him around mid-day saying “Kulkarni saab dopahar ko hi  gharjao”. My father and few of those who lived in old city left he office in Goshamahal and went past Charminar. My father used to say “Badh ka jhaad paar karlo. Khowa bela se safe hotahai”. There is still that Badh ka jhaad( banyan tree) on way from Charminar to Shalibanda.

My father spent Sundays with friends discussing various things. Among them were Gangakhedkar, Jagirdaar, Gopal Rao malkhed, Ananht Chitgopkar,  Shankar Bhatt. Shankar bhatt was the pujari , his residence was on Shalibanda main road. My father consulted him on religious matters. My grand fathers shradh karma was performed at home. Now a days we go to Reghavendra swami mutt to perform annual Shradh. In those days all arrangements were made at home. My mother used to cook as per occasion.

Dattatraya

Later that year my Datta got engaged miss Padma Ganneri. I and my brother were picked up from school and taken to the engagement ceremony. In the photo I am seated between my brother and would be Sis-in-law. This is the only photo of me in uniform of BGVS school.

Dilip with Anna and Vaini

Mr. Jahagirdar had retired from police. He came during Operation Polo to Hyderabad and settled. His house was near the playground in lane opposite to Dr. Gopalachary Residence. Gangakhedkar’s house was at the Bela cross road where today Keshav Netralaya stands. Gangakhedkar house was one of meeting points for my father, Vyasachar and Jahagirdar. Vyasachary was a friend from early days of my family in hyderabad. Last known they were living in Essamiya bazar. He was a teacher in Nrupatunga High School. My brother Datta and eldest son of Vyasachar Mr. Hanumanthachar( Also called as Koppanna), were friends. Vyasachaar used to visit old city during the Raghavendra Swamy Aradhana days. Which is celebrated for three days in August every year. He would reach Gangakhedkar residence and they together would walk to the temple. On one of such days I was playing outside my home.

My Vyasachar saw and told me in telugu “Mattilo atalu enti. Chduvuko poo” [why do you play in dust… go and study]. Then walked on towards the temple. I was upset and ran inside. In the evening as I entered home from he was there having tea with my father. He smiled at me. My reaction was a series of questions… Mama why did you shout at me in Telegu? how do you know I did not study? all my home work is done. You recognized me yet why you did not speak to me in Kannada.? My father was taken aback. Vyasyachar was surprised. I was asked to go inside. My mother lectured me on respecting elders, decency etc. She asked me what is wrong if an elder asked you not to play on street. It was a feedback on my sensitive nature and nature to retort unnecessarily.

Growing up in Hyderabad old city - Part 1

Oldest memories of my childhood go back to around 1979. I was four years old. My memories of that time are of the home, speaking to mom, playing with other kids, the view of neighborhood and first day at school. While many of the details are from later age heard from my parents in typical “you used to do this, said so and so on certain occasion” sort of conversions. This blog is to put down my memories before i grow older. Hope this blog gives a glimpse in to my child hood, my parents life, life in 1980s Old city to my son Amey. Off-course to my family, friends and whoever comes by to read.

Father, Mother, Elder brother (standing), me and Diwakar.

My father came from Hubli in north Karnataka in 1960s and settled in Sultan bazaar. He worked in a private company Andhra Chemical Supplies. His office was on the Goshamahal Road. I hear my elder brother, Dattatraya, had studied in Nrupatunga School. He studied in Nizam college and then did M.Sc ni Geophysics from Osmania university. By the time I was born my family moved to Shalibanda in Old City. My home was on main street that goes from gowlipura to Shah-ali-banda, opposite to a theater named Sudha. Back then it was a single screen theater of 35mm. Later, ni mid 1980s a Second screening hall with 70MM screen was added.  Now in year 2020 it is Cinepolis Sudha. The single screen Sudha Theater was a landmark in those days. I guess event today. Any visitor was guided to come to Sudha and then go this way or ask this parson. I think, am not sure, that the Anand Milk bar at Shalibanda cross road now was situated opposite to Sudha in early 1980s. There was also a Pan shop run by Anjaiah. 

I remember an incident where Anjaiah proved an angel. His shop was to the right of entrance to Chitgopkar house. My younger brother, Diwakar was 3 years younger. He must have climbed down the stairs and started playing on the street. We realized he is not around. I was sent to look in neighbors’ homes. My mother asked Anjaiah, if he saw my brother go down the stairs. He said No. My mother shouted at me to look inside again. Just then Anjaiah jumped out of his shop and started running towards gowlipura. After some time, he was back with my brother in his arms. He had heard two of his customers mentioning a young man carrying a crying boy. He ran on a hunch and found the man with kid. That was a close shave for my brother. That incident was discussed for many days. 

Our house had a bedroom, kitchen and Sitting room. The toilet and bathroom were common among the tenants. There was terrace above my house. Its area included my house and the adjacent tenants’ rooms. Owners were Chitgopkar family. They were Kannadigas. Ananth Chitgopkar lived on first floor. They had son Manohar, two daughters Vasundhara and Rani the eldest. All three were elder to me. Manohar and Rani old enough to carry me. I do not remember elder daughters actual name, but she was called Rani. Ground floor had four families staying on rent. There was another family who were from shadnagar. Their eldest child Naveen was one year younger to me. The younger was my brothers age. It must be this family that I learned Telegu. At home we spoke Kannada. I knew Kannada and Telugu during my first 3-4 years. Hindi, English were learnt at school. Marathi would come much later.

On the right was a building that housed a school run by "Bharath Guna Vardhak Sanstha" and a Public Library. The board reads Hyderabad City Grandhalaya Sanstha, Shalibanda. The earliest memories are filled with sounds of children, morning prayer. One of the entrances in that building had an image of boy siting with a book in his lap. There were crowds and noise at regular intervals. Wonder what a 4-year-old me made from those. My mom used to tell me in later years that I longed to wear the uniform. I would ask when can i go there and play with other elder children. When it was time to send me to school, my parents admitted me in "Bharat Guna Vardhak Sanstha" abbreviated to BGVS. This school taught from Nursery to Fifth standard. My life revolved around this school building even though I was shifted from this school in 1983 to Raghavendra High School. In fact, I wished to have studied at Vaidik Dharma Prakashika (VDP) in Shah-Ali-Banda. VDP has a nice playground. BGVS had very small place. In 1980 it a platform for Ganesh idol was constructed. The other school Raghavendra where I studied till 10^th standard did not have any playground.

Library building.

Coming back to the public library. It had an impressive building. Ground floor housed library. First floor was School. There was a underground section. I heard interesting story on the genesis of public library. I heard some gentlemen in gowlipura asked the people leaving Hyderabad after 1947 to donate their books. People left so many books that he could not accommodate them in his home. He started looking for a place to house library. That is when the current building was identified. Initially the books were stored in the underground hall. This has very thick walls and huge pillars. It was constructed to serve as bomb shelter during air raid. It accommodated about 100 people. Volume of book must be tens of thousands. Many of the books were stored away from reading area. It was well cataloged and professionally run. Not sure what the situation is in 2020. In childhood I went with my father to the newspapers section. Flipped through magazines and mostly pages with images. My father showed me to the books section when I was in third standard. In introduced me to the books for children, and the dictionaries. It was much later about 4 years later that started frequenting the library. There were two big books on the battles of world war I and II respectively. I spent next many months with those books.

There were times in a year, when curfew was imposed. School would be closed, dad does not go to office. I remember a bus was burnt in front of the Sudha Theater and the smoke was visible for many hours. People would listen to news on radio, discuss happenings in city. I used to get bored at home. Slowly got into habit of switching on the transistor for news. My dad used to listen to news bulletins in Hindi, English and Sanskrit. Only Sanskrit I understood then was “Sankruta vaartaha shuyantaam. Pravachaka Baladevananda sagaraha”. My dad has not learned Telugu, even after being in Hyderabad for two decades. While my mother spoke Telugu well. It is the exposure, need to communicate that taught my mother, me and my brother. My dad used Hindi and English at office. While his neighbors and friends were Kannadigas or Hindi was a common language among his Telugu and Maharashtrian friends.